Disassembly of the cylinder head
The camshafts can be removed and installed on an installed engine by following some preliminary steps.
To pre-tension the chain tensioner, a special tool is used, which will be discussed below.
Remove the front of the car.
Remove all drive belts located in front of the engine, i.e. V-ribbed belt and V-belt.
Remove the top toothed belt guard.
Mark the direction of travel of the toothed belt on the outside with a felt-tip pen if the belt is to be reused.
Rotate the crankshaft until the engine is at TDC and remove the toothed belt.
While holding the camshaft gear in a suitable manner, remove the drive gear bolt. Pull off the gear, noting how it was mounted. The shoulder indicated by the arrows must be on the outside after the gear is installed.
Remove Hall sensor and light screen (hood).
Unscrew the cylinder head cover.
Fit the chain tensioner to the cylinder head (№3366), and tighten until a stop is felt. If the tool is tightened too tight, the chain tensioner may be damaged. The device prevents the chain from falling off.
Turn the drive chain and both sprockets so that they are opposite the two arrows (1) on bearing cap #6. Clean the chain and sprockets and mark their relative positions with paint. Wait until the paint dries. You need to count the number of teeth between the two arrows. There should be 16 teeth in total, which will be important during assembly.
Now you should release the camshaft bearing caps in the order shown. The lids are numbered at the top to avoid confusion. First, unscrew the bolts of covers No. 1, 2, 4 and 6 (both shafts), and then unscrew the belt tensioner.
Loosen the #3 and #5 bearing cap bolts on both camshafts in a criss-cross pattern in several passes until they are completely free of tension, then remove the bolts and caps.
Pull out the camshafts. In this case, the chain and both sprockets must be disengaged. It should again be reminded that the position of the sprockets and chain must be marked if these parts are to be reinstalled. If the chain is not installed correctly, it will wear out very quickly and have to be replaced.
Pull out the pushers. They cannot be confused, and therefore should be marked. It is best to apply the risks on the inside, i.e. on the first pusher one risk, on the second - two, etc. You should start from the drive side of the gas distribution mechanism and be sure to mark whether the pusher belongs to the inlet or outlet. Do not lay the pushers on their side, but put the contact surface down.
Due to the peculiarities of the installation of the valves, the removal of the exhaust valves is somewhat more difficult - since it is not so easy to get close to the valve springs from this side. The recommended tool for removing and installing valves is number 2036. Tool 2036 is a screw-on iron rod, under which you can put the lever of the valve puller VW541/1 in order to compress the valve springs using the piston VW541/5.
A conventional valve puller is suitable for removing exhaust valves. When using a valve puller, it is necessary that the piston of the tool enters the inside of the recess of the valve spring, otherwise the spring cannot be compressed. Compress the spring until you can remove the halves of crackers.
To remove the valves, you can use a piece of pipe, which must be placed on the upper spring plate. Under the plate of the spring you need to put something underneath. Hit the pipe with a hammer so that the crackers can come out. They will be inside the pipe. The pipe should be well pressed against the valve plate so as not to lose crackers.
cylinder head
1 Oil deflector plate
2 Cylinder head bolt (replaced every time)
3 Cylinder head
4 Intake manifold gasket
5 Bolt, 10 Nm
6 Intake manifold block
7. Cylinder head gasket
Camshafts
1 Bearing cap bolt, 10 Nm
2 The exhaust camshaft bearing cap is held by the guide sleeve
3 Exhaust camshaft
4 Front bearing cap
5 Intake camshaft bearing cap
6 Intake camshaft
7 Drive chain
8 Hydraulic chain tensioner
9 Rubber-metal gasket
1Semicircular sealing insert
Remove spring plates and springs. Pull out the valve stem seals and discard as they need to be replaced with new ones.
cylinder head
1 hollow pusher
2 Rusks
3 Valve springs
4 Valve springs
5 Valve stem seal
6 Guide pin
7 Cylinder head
8 Oil seal on the toothed belt side
9 Camshaft drive gear
1 Bolt, 85 Nm
11 Bolt, 10 Nm
12 Hall sensor
13 Bolt, 25 Nm
14 figure puck
15 Hall sensor socket
16 Gland at the end of the Hall sensor
17 Exhaust valve
18 intake valve
Cylinder head assembly
Lubricate the valve stems well with engine oil and insert into the appropriate guide bushings.
Install valve stem seals. There is a suitable tool for this (3365).
Push on the plastic sleeve (A) fittings on the protruding valve guide.
Lubricate the seal well (IN) and put on a plastic sleeve.
Place tool 3365 on the oil seal and carefully press it into the guide bush. If seals are installed without using this tool or similar, the seals may be damaged, resulting in increased oil consumption.
If the valves have been lapped, they must be installed in their respective guide bushings.
Install the valve springs in their original locations on the cylinder head if the springs are being reinstalled.
Install the upper valve plates. Install the puller, then compress the springs or not, depending on whether we are talking about intake or exhaust valves. After the end of the rod comes out of the upper valve plate, put both crackers in the groove of the rod and slowly release the valve puller.
Hit the top of the valve stem with a plastic mallet. Incorrectly installed crackers will pop out. As a precaution, place a rag under the ends of the springs so that the installed parts do not pop out.
Lubricate the bearing journals of both camshafts well with oil.
Install the hydraulic tappets according to the previously made designations in the tappet holes. They should be well oiled.
Engage both camshafts with the drive chain. In this case, you need to pay attention to the designation previously made with paint, i.e. the label should be against the arrow. There should be 16 chain links between both arrows. When installing the camshafts, the cams for the first cylinder must point vertically upwards.
Lubricate the surface of the rubber gasket shaded in the figure with sealant (AMV 188 001 02). The semi-circular sealing sleeve must be replaced with a new one every time.
Install the chain tensioner on the chain, lubricate the camshaft bearing journals well and install the camshafts together with the chain and chain tensioner in the inner diameters of the bearings. Screw on the chain tensioner immediately.
Install the camshaft bearing caps in order according to the numbers and screw loosely.
Tighten bearing caps No. 3 and No. 5 alternately, crosswise, in several passes to a tightening torque of 10 Nm. In this case, the camshaft is pressed into the inner diameters of the bearings without damaging the latter. Tighten both camshaft covers as described.
Install #6 bearing caps on both camshafts. Check again that the camshafts are correctly aligned and tighten both bearing caps evenly to a tightening torque of 10 Nm.
Unscrew and remove the tool used to lock the chain tensioner.
Install the double bearing cap, i.e. front, having previously lubricated it with sealant in the place shaded in the figure over the camshaft, on the cylinder head. Tighten bolts to 10 Nm.
Tighten remaining bearing caps evenly, crosswise to 10 Nm.
Install the camshaft seals on the camshaft drive side and on the Hall sender side.
Take the camshaft drive gear in your hand and put it on the camshaft, paying attention to the collar. Holding the gear in place in a suitable way (for example, by inserting a rod through a hole in a gear), tighten the bolt with washer to 85 Nm. The cylinder head is now ready for installation if all other parts are installed.
Rotate both camshafts several times to check for binding.
Installing the cylinder head
Before installing the cylinder head, the following must be done:
The cylinder head bolts must be replaced every time.
The threaded holes in the cylinder block are blind, which means that the oil that has got into them must be removed so that when the bolts are tightened, a hydraulic cushion is not created.
Before installing the cylinder head, turn the crankshaft until the piston of the first cylinder is at top dead center.
Clean the surfaces of the cylinder head and block again.
There are centering pins in the cylinder block for precise installation of the cylinder head gasket. Lay the cylinder head gasket on the pins so that the word "OBEN/TOP", or the part number after the gasket was installed was visible from above. A new gasket should be installed each time.
Install the cylinder head and hammer with a plastic or rubber mallet.
Insert cylinder head bolts and tighten by hand.
Tighten the cylinder head bolts alternately in the order shown. To tighten the bolts, only a special multi-faceted wrench should be used, otherwise the bolt heads may be damaged. Damaged bolts should be replaced.
- Tighten all bolts in sequence to 4Nm.
- Tighten all bolts in sequence to 6Nm.
- In the indicated order, insert the key into the head of the bolt, mark the position of the wrench and tighten each bolt exactly half a turn (or twice a quarter turn).
Instruction. After tightening, the cylinder head bolts should not be tightened either on a cold or hot engine
Install the toothed belt and adjust the timing mechanism as described in the relevant section.
Install the larger and smaller cylinder head cover gaskets and install the cylinder head cover. Tighten bolts evenly around circumference to 10 Nm.
Perform all other operations.
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