The master brake cylinder cannot be repaired. those. When a cylinder fails, it must be replaced with a new one. The brake pipes are divided diagonally, i.e. two pistons work with two circuits as follows:
The piston closest to the push rod actuates the left front wheel brake and the right rear wheel brake, while the intermediate piston actuates the right front wheel brake and the left rear wheel brake.
Attention: If it is suddenly found that the force required for braking increases or the braking distance lengthens, this means that one of the brake circuits has failed.
Removal and installation of the main brake cylinder
The master brake cylinder is mounted on the front surface of the brake booster and can be removed from the side of the engine compartment.
Before starting work, depress the brake pedal several times to remove the vacuum from the brake booster. If there is no vacuum, plug the vacuum line at the booster.
Suck out the brake fluid from the reservoir, then remove the screen. To remove the liquid, use a pear or syringe, but in no case by mouth.
Remove the control indicator plug from the tank.
Remove the hose going to the clutch cylinder.
Pull out, shaking back and forth, the reservoir from the brake cylinder.
Attention. This will pour out the remaining brake fluid and you need to prepare a rag to collect it.
Unscrew the brake pipe connections and bend the pipes to the side. Mark the location of each tube.
Loosen cylinder nuts (only two nuts, not bolts). The rubber seal is located at the end of the brake booster.
Installation elements of the main brake cylinder and brake booster
1 Master cylinder
2 Torx bolt, 25 Nm
3 Flange nut, 50 Nm (new)
4 sealing sleeve
5 cans of brake fluid (clutch connection is on the side shown)
6 Grid
7 O-ring.
8 Cork
9 Vacuum pipeline
10 Always replace the O-ring after removing the cylinder
11 Brake booster
12 Gasket (pasted)
13 Piping for the intermediate port circuit
14 Piping for the first piston circuit. The dashed lines indicate the attachment points on the bulkhead of the engine compartment
The cylinder is installed in the reverse order of removal. Both flange nuts (3) tighten with a torque of 50 Nm, the union nuts of the brake pipes with a torque of 15 Nm. The push rod of the brake booster does not need to be adjusted (only when replacing the amplifier). In this case, it is necessary to adjust the length of the pusher rod to a certain length.
Lubricate the sealing sleeves in the cylinder with brake fluid and press the brake fluid reservoir onto the sleeves. Bushings must be in good condition. Finally, fill the system with brake fluid and bleed the clutch and brake hydraulic system as described in the relevant sections.
Repair of the main brake cylinder
The brake master cylinder of the models covered in this manual cannot be repaired. The brake master cylinder and brake booster can be supplied by different manufacturers, but it does not matter which product is installed when the cylinder needs to be replaced. The same applies to the brake booster.
Rubber grommets (4) for the tank can be replaced. if moisture is visible in this place. Press the tank carefully to the right and left, inserting a screwdriver, so that you can squeeze out the rubber bushings. Lubricate the new rubber bushings with brake fluid and press them into the brake master cylinder. After that, carefully insert the tank. Remove air from the brake system.
Brake Fluid Level Monitor
The indicator lamp on the instrument panel lights up and the buzzer starts to sound when something is wrong with the brake fluid level. Remove plug to check (8), turn on the ignition and press your finger on the grid (6). The control lamp should light up and the buzzer should sound. If this happens, then the control device is working normally.
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