The illustrations show the thermal switch for the function of turning on the cooling fan after the engine stops, on the left for a 4-cylinder engine, on the right for a 5-cylinder.
Vehicles with a 5-cylinder engine are equipped with a hydraulic clutch fan. Numeric «2» liquid clutch is indicated, to which the fan itself is screwed (1).
With this special wrench and wrench size 32, you can unscrew the fluid clutch. In this case, a special key is installed in the holes on the surface of the fan pulley (behind the hydraulic fan). Now, using a 32 wrench, you can unscrew the fan from the pulley.
After the engine has cooled down, you can drive to the nearest workshop at medium speed and at a relatively fast pace. At the same time, it is necessary to monitor the temperature indicator and the coolant temperature control light.
Engine idling and slow driving can be fatal to the engine. At the same time, almost no cooling air passes through the radiator. If it is necessary to drive further at low speed, it is better to immediately start looking for the causes of malfunctions and, if necessary, «get around» thermal switch (see next section).
Troubleshooting
First you need to check the corresponding fuse in the additional relay box on the left under the dashboard.
If it is OK, disconnect the thermoswitch plug.
Connect both contacts in the wire end with a piece of wire. With a two-speed fan, all three plug tabs must be connected.
If the fan starts to work when the ignition is on, this means that the thermal switch excluded from the electrical circuit is faulty (for trial).
For further movement, you need to fix the wire well in the plugs and insulate it with adhesive tape or plaster to prevent a short circuit.
If disconnecting the thermal switch is unsuccessful, check the fan relay in the central switch: if both thermal switch jumpers «bypassed», then with the ignition on, the contacts in relays 1 and 2 should close audibly.
If you don't hear anything, then «get around» auxiliary relays. To do this, connect the tabs of the relay plug of terminals 30 and 87 with a piece of wire (paper clip) and insert the relay.
The cooling fan should now work with the ignition off. If this happens, then the relay is faulty.
The jumper wire can, in an emergency, remain installed even when driving. After the trip, it must be removed.
If in this case there is no reaction, check the fan motor: Disconnect the wire end of the fan motor and run an auxiliary wire instead from the red-black wire contact to the positive battery terminal. Connect the plug connection of the brown wire directly to the negative terminal.
If the impeller still does not rotate, then the fan motor is faulty - replace it.
If the fan is running, you need to check the relay (see chapter «Body electrical system»), wire lugs, as well as all cable connections from the thermal switch and fan.
You can continue driving safely even with the fan powered directly from the battery. Auxiliary wiring should be routed so that there is no short circuit.
In the event that the additional fan is working, the failure of the first stage may be in the additional resistor.
Removing the cooling fan
The cooling system fan must be removed from the radiator together with the rear protective casing of the radiator - the so-called fan cage:
Release the fixing screws on the top of the fan support.
Disconnect the plug from the fan motor and disconnect the wiring harness.
Pull the drawer side out of the brackets on the bottom edge.
Loosen the four fixing bolts on the side. Disconnect the plugs on the fan motor.
Remove the drawer side together with the fan motor
To separate the motor and drawer, loosen the three fixing nuts.
The illustration shows a 5-cylinder engine with the hydraulic fan removed. The numbers indicate:
1 - fan support threaded for screwing the liquid clutch;
2 - support bracket mounted on the engine.
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