Table of contents: Troubleshooting ↓ Removal the cooling system fan ↓
Besides the jammed thermostat and broken V-belt (only on models with 4-cylinder engine) a faulty cooling fan can cause the coolant temperature to be too high, but only if the engine is running at idle for a long time. But a faulty fan doesn't have to mean the end of the ride:
The illustrations show the thermal switch for the cooling system fan function after the engine has stopped, on the left for a 4-cylinder engine, on the right for a 5-cylinder engine.
Cars with a 5-cylinder engine are equipped with a fan with a hydraulic clutch. The number "2" indicates the liquid clutch, to which the fan itself is bolted (1).
With the help of such a special key and a 32 mm spanner, you can unscrew the liquid clutch. In this case, the special key is installed in the holes on the surface of the fan pulley (behind the hydraulic fan). Now, using a 32 mm wrench, you can unscrew the fan from the pulley.
Once the engine has cooled down, you can drive to the nearest workshop at medium speed and at a relatively fast pace. In this case, you need to watch the temperature indicator and the coolant temperature control light.
Idling and driving slowly can be fatal for the engine. At the same time, almost no cooling air passes through the radiator. If you absolutely must continue driving at low speed, it is better to immediately start looking for the causes of malfunctions and, if necessary, "bypass" the thermal switch (see next section).
Troubleshooting
First, you need to check the corresponding fuse in the additional relay block on the left under the dashboard.
If it is OK, disconnect the thermal switch plug.
Connect both contacts at the end of the wire with a piece of wire. For a two-speed fan, you must connect all three connector tabs.
If the fan starts working when the ignition is on, this means that the thermal switch is faulty and has been removed from the electrical circuit (for testing).
To proceed further, you need to secure the wire well in the plugs and insulate it with adhesive tape or a bandage to avoid short circuits.
If disconnecting the thermal switch does not lead to success, check the fan relay in the central switch: if both jumpers of the thermal switch are "bypassed", then when the ignition is on, the contacts in relays 1 and 2 should close clearly and audibly.
If you can't hear anything, you need to "bypass" the relay with auxiliary means. To do this, connect the tabs of the relay plug terminals 30 and 87 with a piece of wire (with a paper clip) and insert the relay.
The cooling system fan should now start working even with the ignition off. If this happens, the relay is faulty.
The jumper wire may, in an emergency, remain installed while driving. After driving, it must be removed.
If there is still no reaction, check the fan motor: Disconnect the wire tip at the fan motor and instead run an auxiliary wire from the contact of the red-black wire to the positive terminal of the battery. Connect the plug connection of the brown wire directly to the negative terminal.
If the impeller still does not rotate, then the fan motor is faulty - replace it.
If the fan starts working, you need to check the relay (see chapter "Body electrical system"), wire ends, as well as all cable connections from the thermal switch and fan.
You can safely continue driving even with the fan powered directly from the battery. The auxiliary wiring should be routed so that a short circuit does not occur.
If the additional fan is working properly, the fault in the first stage may be in the additional resistor.
Removal the cooling system fan
The cooling system fan must be removed from the radiator together with the rear protective cover of the radiator - the so-called fan frame:
Unscrew the mounting bolts at the top of the fan frame.
Disconnect the plug from the fan motor and disconnect the wiring harness.
Pull the frame out of the brackets on the bottom edge.
Loosen the four mounting bolts on the column. Disconnect the plugs on the fan motor.
Remove the column together with the fan motor
To separate the engine and the frame, loosen the three mounting nuts.
The illustration shows a 5-cylinder engine with the hydraulic fan removed. The numbers indicate:
1 - Fan support with thread for screwing on liquid clutch;
2 - support bracket fixed to the engine.