The slave cylinder is located on top of the gearbox (checkpoint) and fastened with a bolt. The installation method for both cylinders is shown in the figure below.
The clutch master and slave cylinders cannot be repaired. Loss of pressure due to wear or damage to parts means that new units must be installed.
Installing the clutch pedals and master cylinder
1 Lock washer
2 Servo spring
3 spring
4 Brake pedal
5 Lock washer
6 Stoplight switch
7 Vent valve
8 Stoppers
9 Locknut
10 Clutch master cylinder
11 Lock washer
12 Clutch pedal
Clutch between clutch master and slave cylinder
1 Clutch slave cylinder
2 Vent valve
3 duster
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Bent fitting
6 Clutch master cylinder
7 Rubber seal
8 Holder
9 Sleeve
10 Ring
Removal and installation of the master cylinder
Removal is carried out mainly from the inside (from the salon) car. You need to prepare to remove the trim on the left side.
Unscrew the cap of the brake fluid reservoir and suck out as much fluid as possible with a syringe or rubber bulb. Care must be taken to ensure that brake fluid does not come into contact with painted surfaces and in no case should the fluid be sucked out by mouth through a hose - it is poisonous! Now you can remove the trim as follows:
Remove the fuse box cover from outside the instrument panel (2 bolts underneath).
Remove 4 cover screws. These are the two bolts already indicated in the fuse box and two others (arrows). They are located on the right and left of the steering wheel. Now move the casing down a little and pull it back.
Place thick rags on the floor of the cabin to collect the leaking liquid, as now the hose is pulled off the connection of the master cylinder.
Loosen the union nut on the slave cylinder line in the engine compartment. On this side, also unscrew the two nuts of the fastening bolts.
In the cab, remove the master cylinder tappet pivot bolt clamp from the clutch pedal and remove the bolt.
Carefully remove the master cylinder. Watch for brake fluid dripping out of it.
When installing a new cylinder, you need to adjust the push rod (fork head on pushrod) so that the clutch pedal is about 10 mm higher than the brake pedal. Check whether the auxiliary spring returns the clutch pedal and that the pedal in its original position does not rest against the pedal block, because. If you do not pay attention to this, then the consequence will be increased clutch wear.
After installation, bleed the hydraulic system as described below. If the clutch pedal does not return to its original position and the car has already high mileage, then it may be that the pedal is tight or the auxiliary spring is not working properly.
Removal and installation of the working cylinder
Raise and support the car in front, because. work ahead on the left.
Put a thick rag around the cylinder on the gearbox and unscrew the pipe union nut. Pull out the tube and immediately wipe up the leaked liquid.
Unscrew the mounting bolt on the cylinder and pull the cylinder back from the gearbox. He sometimes "takes a liking" and it's hard to move it. In this case, you can use some kind of anti-rust agent. If this does not help, you should use the mount.
Lightly grease the outside of the new cylinder. A little graphite grease should be applied at the junction of the pushrod and the clutch release lever.
Push the cylinder into the gearbox. so that the bolt can be inserted and tightened. Tightening torque - 25 Nm.
Finally screw on the tube and bleed the hydraulic actuator as described below.
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