After some cooling of the engine, you can go to the nearest workshop at low speed and at medium speed. In this case, you need to monitor the temperature readings and the control light
Idling and slow movement in such a situation are harmful to the engine. In this case, the cooling air does not flow around the radiator fins. You need to keep moving at low speed. It is necessary to try to find the cause of the malfunction and, if necessary, bypass the thermal switch.
Troubleshooting
Check the fuse first.
If it is OK, disconnect both wires of the thermal switch or the double plug.
Connect the pins together or bridge the plug with a piece of wire.
If there is a two-stage thermal switch, all three contacts must be bridged.
If now the fan turns on when the ignition is on, then the thermal switch removed from the electrical circuit is faulty.
For further movement, close the plug with a jumper or a piece of wire.
To ensure that loose wires do not cause trouble, stick them with adhesive tape or adhesive tape. so that they don't overlap.
If bypassing the thermal switch does not help, check the fan relay. When closing the wires suitable for the thermal switch, the switching contacts in the relay should click when the ignition is on.
If this is not the case, you can try to bridge the relay. To do this, connect contacts 30/14 and 37/17 with a piece of wire and insert a relay.
The radiator fan should also turn on when the ignition is on. If it now turns on, then the relay is faulty.
The jumper wire can only serve as a temporary aid. After the end of the trip, it must be removed.
If this method fails, check the fan motor.
Disconnect the plug on the fan motor and, instead, connect the auxiliary wire from the positive pole of the battery to the red / black wire contact. The brown wire plug must be connected directly to the negative pole.
If the impeller still does not rotate, then the fan motor is faulty and needs to be replaced.
If the fan is running, you need to check the relay, plug and all wires of the thermal switch and electric fan.
It is possible to continue driving with the fan connected directly to the battery if the auxiliary wire is well secured.
The second fan stage, if any, is connected to the fan auxiliary switch with a red/blue wire. To test this stage, you need to connect the wires to the contacts of the red / blue wires.
Removing the radiator fan
The radiator fan is removed from the radiator together with the rear facing (bezel fan).
With the radiator installed, unscrew the two hard-to-reach bottom screws securing the fan frame. Disconnect the wiring harness from the clamps.
With a four-cylinder engine, unhook the hood lock cable.
In the presence of a five-cylinder engine, unscrew the radiator mount on the left (rubber-metal support).
Remove fan motor with frame.
To disconnect the engine from the frame, unscrew the three fastening nuts.
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