2. There are many customized kits for self-bleeding. It is recommended to use one of these kits whenever possible, as they greatly simplify the bleeding procedure.
3. If none of these kits are available, you will need to prepare a clean reservoir and a suitable length of clear plastic tubing that can be pulled tight over the bleeder port, and the assistance of another person will be required.
4. Before priming, check that all hard tubes and flexible hoses are in good condition and all hydraulic connections are tight. Be very careful not to get hydraulic fluid on the vehicle's paintwork, or serious damage will result. Rinse spilled fluid immediately with cold water.
5. If hydraulic fluid is lost from the master cylinder due to a system leak, identify and correct the cause before proceeding.
6. To bleed the system, clean the area around the bleeder port. If the hydraulic system has been partially disconnected on one of the circuits, and the necessary precautions have been taken to prevent further loss of fluid, only that part of the system will need to be bled. However, if the entire system is to be bled, the following sequence must be followed:
- (1) Brake master cylinder only on models with ABS
- (2) Right rear working brake cylinder or caliper
- (3) Left rear working brake cylinder or caliper
- (4) Right front caliper
- (5) Left front caliper
7. When bleeding the rear brake cylinders or calipers on models with a brake pressure regulator, have an assistant push the regulator lever all the way back.
8. Remove the filler cap of the additional reservoir of the brake system and top up the fluid level (photo). Check fluid level periodically during pumping and top up as needed.
9. With all bleeders closed, quickly bleed the brake pedal several times to build initial system pressure.
10. If a custom bleed kit is used, connect the bleed tube to the bleed port, then open the screw half a turn (photo). If possible, position the block where it can be seen from the vehicle, then depress the brake pedal to the floor and slowly release it. The one-way valve included will prevent vented air from returning to the systems at the end of each stroke. Repeat this action until liquid flows through the pipe without air bubbles. Now clamp the bleeder valve and remove the outlet pipe.
11. If there is no individual bleed kit, connect one end of a plastic tube to the bleeder socket and lower the other end into a reservoir containing enough clean brake fluid so that the end of the pipe is always immersed. Open the bleeder valve half a turn, have an assistant depress the brake pedal to the floor and then slowly release it. Clamp the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stroke to prevent expelled air from returning to the system. Repeat this action until liquid flows through the pipe without air bubbles. Now clamp the bleeder valve and remove the outlet pipe.
12. If the entire system is being bled, the above procedures must now be repeated for each wheel. Don't forget to recheck the fluid level in the reservoir and top up as needed.
13. Finally, recheck the fluid level, top up if necessary, install the cap. Check the 'feel' of the brake pedal; it should be stable, not fall through or spring, which indicates the presence of air in the system.
14. Discard the removed fluid as it is most likely already contaminated with moisture, air and dirt and is not suitable for further use.
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