1. Remove the instrument panel. This provides access to the steering wheel lock.
2. Remove the sealing wax that sealed the two small screws securing the steering wheel lock switch (see illustration).
3. Disconnect the switch. When installing a new switch, make sure that the lock control pin is in the groove on the switch.
Steering wheel lock switch - check
4. Punch the insulation of the wire with the thin end of the tester's connecting probe with a test light to determine which wire is the power wire.
5. Locate the appropriate wiring diagram. First check if the switch is receiving power. To do this, turn on the ignition or headlights.
6. Make sure that the switch, when in a certain position, passes current further into the circuit. Using the steering wheel shaft switch as an example, it looks like this.
7. Remove the instrument panel to provide access to the switch power wires.
8. Connect tester with test light to «mass» (-).
9. Punch the insulation of the wire under test with a tester probe with a test light.
Both terminals 30, to which a thick wire with red insulation is connected, must be supplied with voltage from the battery. The P terminal, to which the gray-yellow wire is connected, is energized only in the state «rest» and when you turn the key in the lock, it is de-energized. Terminal X, to which the wire with black and yellow insulation is connected, is energized only when the ignition is turned on. The same applies to a thin wire with red insulation for the sound signal and radio power supply.
Power is supplied to the black insulated wire terminal 15 when the ignition key is turned to the «Ignition» (for diesel engines «Preheat») And «launch»
Power from terminal 50 to the wire with red-black insulation to the starter is supplied only when the key in the ignition switch is turned to position «launch».
An acoustic signal is given if the door is open, the ignition key is removed from the lock, and the light is not turned off or the radio continues to work. This sound signal is emitted by a corresponding device in the small control unit for vehicles not equipped with the Auto-Check-System. For cars with Auto-Check-System, the same rather squeaky and unpleasant sound comes from the additional relay block, located at the bottom left under the instrument panel (legroom on the driver's side). If this signal «gets on your nerves», then it can be turned off by removing the corresponding acoustic signaling device from place No. 12, which looks like a relay.
Power is supplied to the cigarette lighter through the appropriate fuse. If the cigarette lighter, despite the fact that the fuse is in order, does not work, then the contacts of the filament coil have loosened or it has burned out. The coil can be replaced.
Rear window heating
The heated rear window is operated via a switch on the instrument panel. Power is supplied to the switch when the ignition is on from terminal X of the unloader relay through a wire with white-yellow insulation through a fuse. When the switch is turned on, the current from the switch flows through a wire with white insulation to the filaments of the glass defroster.
If the rear window defroster does not work, then the reasons may be as follows.
- A) The fuse has blown.
- b) Switch defective. Remove it and check with a tester with a control light whether voltage is supplied with the ignition on and the switch on to the wire with white insulation. Check the heater contacts and make sure, by connecting a tester with a test lamp to the heater contact with a white wire, that power is supplied to the heater filaments. Also check the contact of the heater filament with «Massoy» (-), which is located on the right rear roof pillar, bending the pillar trim (see illustration 16.0).
- V) Filament damage. In this case, conductive silver-containing varnish, which can be purchased at auto parts stores, can help.
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