The timing belt is made from a polymer reinforced with a steel wire frame. This belt does not need to be lubricated or tightened.
Replacing a toothed belt is an extremely labor intensive operation. This requires a number of special tools (TDC setting device, marking pin or marking plates, two-hole nut wrench, setting ruler, support device with feet or lifting device, goniometer, counter support, etc.,). If an error is made during adjustment, this can lead to serious engine damage.
Replacing the belt is very difficult, also because the handling of damped tensioners, the removal and installation of the V-ribbed belt tensioner, and the removal and installation of the belt guard require appropriate knowledge and experience. In addition, during installation, it is necessary to adjust the valve timing in a new way. For this reason, we do not stop at the dismantling and installation of the toothed belt, moreover, we strongly recommend that you contact a workshop to replace the belt.
Toothed belt drive in ALZ 1.6 l engine: 1 - rotary lock, 2 - toothed belt cover - upper part, 3 - central screw (loosen and tighten with counterholder 3415, tightening torque 100 Nm), 4 - camshaft gear, 5 - screw-washer combination (10 Nm), 6 - toothed belt guard - rear, 7 - hexagon socket screw (10 Nm), 8 - O-ring, 9 - coolant pump, 10 - toothed belt, 11 - crankshaft gear, 12 - screw (90 Nm, then turn a further 90°), 13 - toothed belt guard - lower part, 14 - screws (10 Nm), 15 - vibration damper (pulley), 16 - screw (25 Nm), 17 - toothed belt casing - middle part, 18 - tension roller, 19 - washer, 20 - nuts (20 Nm).
Toothed belt drive in ALT and AVJ engines: 1 - toothed belt casing - lower part, 2 - screws (10 Nm), 3 - toothed belt housing - middle part, 4 - toothed belt housing - upper part (carefully attach to the middle part of the casing; position 4 in AVJ engines is performed somewhat differently than in ALT engines), 5 - screws, 6 - toothed belt, 7 - guide roller, 8 - nut (27 Nm), 9 - central screw (loosen and tighten with counterholder 3036, tightening torque 65 Nm), 10 - camshaft gear, 11 - idler, 12 - washer, 13 - toothed belt tensioner, 14 - O-ring, 15 - coolant pump, 16 - screw (15 Nm), 17 - crankshaft gear, 18 - screw (Loosen and tighten with counterholder 3415, tightening torque 90 Nm, then turn a further 90°; screw replace, do not lubricate), 19 - screw (15 Nm), 20 - screw (25 Nm).
Toothed belt drive in 6-cylinder ASN engines: 1,3, 8 and 30 - screws (self-locking, 45 Nm), 2 and 6 - washer, 4 - tension roller, 5 - tension lever, 7 - toothed belt, 9 - exhaust camshaft gear (right bank of cylinders), 10 - intake camshaft gear (right bank of cylinders), 11, 13, 16, 17, 22 and 34 - screws (some self-locking, 10 Nm), 12 - holding idler gel, 14 - timing belt housing - rear right side, 15 - idler, 18 - mechanical coolant pump, 19 - gasket, 20 - intake camshaft gear (left bank of cylinders), 23 - exhaust camshaft gear (left bank of cylinders), 24 - screw (100 Nm), 25 - O-ring, 26 - cover, 27 - retaining ring, 28 - diamond washer, 29 - eccentric roller, 31 - crankshaft gear, 32 - central screw (200 Nm, then tighten another half turn), 33 - toothed belt tensioner.
If you still decide to work with a toothed belt, in no case should it be subjected to longitudinal bending. If the belt has been bent at least once, then it must be changed. During operation, such a belt can break, and this leads to serious damage to the engine.
It is also important that when the camshaft rotates with the toothed belt removed in the top dead center. not a single piston was standing, otherwise serious damage to the pistons or valves may occur.
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