Note: Please refer to the warning at the beginning paragraph 2 about the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Withdrawal
1. The clutch master cylinder is located in the passenger compartment on the brake and clutch pedal bracket. Hydraulic fluid is supplied to it from the reserve reservoir of brake fluid.
Right hand drive models
2. Before starting the procedure, spread the rags on the carpets of the passenger compartment so as not to stain them with hydraulic fluid.
3. Under the hood, clamp the brake fluid hose from the reserve reservoir to the clutch master cylinder with a clamp.
4. Pull the hose off the clutch master cylinder on the engine shield.
5. Turn away a connecting nut and disconnect a hydraulic tube from the main cylinder. Plug or tape the tube to prevent dirt and liquid from escaping into the system.
6. Operating in the cabin, remove the box for small items under the steering knee, as described in chapter 11. Open the lid, unscrew the fastening screw and pull the drawer out of the latches on the front panel. This will give you access to the pedal bracket.
7. If provided, disconnect the wiring and pull out the sensor/switch from the top of the clutch pedal.
8. Disconnect the master cylinder rod from the pedal by pulling the retainer.
9. Turn away bolts of fastening by a hexagon and remove the main cylinder from an arm of a pedal. Note that the rubber seal must remain on the master cylinder flange.
Left Hand Drive Models
10. Remove the engine OCU from the left side of the engine shield as described in paragraphs 4 or 5 chapter 4A. To do this, on early models, remove the cover from the electronic box by pushing the head through the hole in the cover panel in front of the windshield. Later models do not have holes in the panel and the panel will have to be removed to get to the rear bolt.
11. If provided, remove the additional relay box and additional fuse box.
12. Disconnect the wiring connector and pull the wiring through the window in the electronic box. Unscrew the fastening nuts in the back of the box and, having unhooked the box from the guide, remove it from the motor shield.
13. Before starting the procedure, spread the rags on the interior carpets so as not to stain them with spilled hydraulic fluid.
14. Gently clamp the hose that leads from the reserve brake reservoir to the clutch master cylinder with a clamp.
15. Pull the hose off the clutch master cylinder on the engine shield.
16. On early models, unscrew the union nut and disconnect the hydraulic tube from the clutch master cylinder. The connecting nut is partially closed by the brake booster. On later models, unhook the retainer with a screwdriver and remove the hydraulic tube from the master cylinder. Plug the tube or wrap it with tape so that dirt does not get into the system and brake fluid does not leak out.
17. Using the Togh head, unscrew the bolts securing the master brake cylinder.
18. Operating in the cabin, remove the box for small items under the steering column to get to the pedal bracket, as described in chapter 11. Open the lid, unscrew the fixing screws and pull the drawer off the front panel latches.
19. Using a screwdriver, unhook the master cylinder rod retainer by turning it up and pulling it off the pedal. Pull the pedal up to disengage from the stem.
20. Using a hexagon, unscrew the clutch master cylinder mounting bolts and the upper pedal bracket bolt, pull out the bracket with the master cylinder a little and remove the master cylinder. Make sure the rubber seal remains on the master cylinder flange.
Repair
21. Audi don't make repair kits, but other factories do.
22. Before starting repairs, clean the outer surfaces.
23. Remove the rubber boot and remove the stem. If necessary, loosen the locknut, unscrew the fork with the locknut, and remove the stem from the rubber seal. Note the distance between the center of the stem lug and the mounting flange in order to properly reinstall.
24. Take out a lock ring from an entrance to the cylinder, remove a washer, the piston and a spring. remembering that the smaller end of the spring is in contact with the piston.
25. Clean the components and make sure they are intact. If the piston and cylinder are excessively worn or corroded, the entire cylinder is replaced. If the piston and cylinder are in good condition, remove all rubber seals from them and replace with new ones.
26. Immerse new seals in hydraulic fluid and install them on the piston using no tools other than your fingers. The sealing lips must face the spring.
27. Insert the spring into the cylinder, immerse the piston in hydraulic fluid and carefully insert the piston.
28. Install the washer, then install the circlip into the groove.
29. Apply grease to the tip of the rod, insert it into the piston and install the rubber boot.
30. Install the lock nut and yoke and adjust the distance between the center of the lug and the surface of the mounting flange. facing the engine shield. It should be 139±0.5 mm on non-right hand drive models and 165±0.5 mm on left hand drive models.
Installation
31. Installation - reverse procedure. Tighten screw connections to the prescribed torques. Lubricate the fork lug before installation. Bleed the clutch system as described in paragraph 2. On left-hand drive models, before installing the electronic box, check the condition of the engine shield gasket and, if necessary, replace it. Finally, check the installation of the clutch pedal switch/switch as follows. With the pedal released, the gap between the sensor plunger and the main body should be no more than 0.5 mm. The gap between the pedal bracket and the protrusions on the sensor housing should also be no more than 0.5 mm. The gap is adjusted by turning the sensor (pic. 44.31).
Pic. 4.31. Clutch drop sensor/switch adjustment:
1. Sensor
2. Mounting bracket
3. Clutch pedal
a and b - 0.5 mm
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