Note: If only the crankshaft is removed, the pistons and cylinder head do not need to be removed. It is enough to repair the connecting rod bearing caps and move the connecting rods with pistons towards the head. The use of an engine mount is highly recommended for this operation.
As described in chapter 2A or 2B, do the following:
- A) Remove the timing belt and crankshaft sprocket.
- b) Remove the clutch components and flywheel/face plate.
- V) Remove the pan, reflective plate (pic. 8.1), oil pump and oil receiver.
- G) Remove the front and rear oil seal housings.
2. Remove the pistons with connecting rods or disconnect them from the crankshaft as described in paragraph 7 (see note above).
3. By removing the crankshaft, check its axial clearance using a dial indicator.
Note: This can only be done if the crankshaft is mounted in a block and has the ability to move along the axis.
Install the dial indicator so that its meter leg rests on the end of the crankshaft. Push the crankshaft all the way and reset the indicator. Move the crankshaft to the other extreme position and measure the clearance (pic. 8.3). Compare your result with specifications. This will indicate the need to replace the thrust half rings.
4. If there is no indicator, you can use a set of flat probes. The feeler gauges must be inserted between the side surface of the third connecting rod journal and the half ring in the central crankshaft bearing (pic. 8.4). Compare the results obtained with those given in Specifications.
5. Identification marks must be cast on the crankshaft bearing caps. Covers are numbered starting from the timing belt side. If there are none, apply your own with a core (pic. 8.5).
6. Unscrew the bolts securing the support covers half a turn per pass until you can unscrew them with your hands and remove the covers together with the liners (Figure 8.6, a, b). If the lids are tight, carefully pry them open with a brass or wooden mallet. If there is no numbering, apply your own, but do not scratch them.
7. Gently lift the crankshaft up off the inverted cylinder block (pic. 8.7).
8. Remove the support half rings from both sides of the central support, remove the upper liners from the block. If the bearings are to be reinstalled, fold them together with their respective support covers.
9. After removing the liners, inspect the condition of the grooves for the protrusions (castles) earbuds that allow you to install the earbuds in only one position.
Examination
10. Wash the crankshaft with a suitable solvent and dry thoroughly. Flush the oil passages thoroughly to make sure they are not clogged with dirt.
11. Carefully inspect the shaft journals. If there are obvious scratches, grooves or scuffs, the shaft must be reground and new bushings of repair size should be installed.
12. Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of all main journals (pic. 8.12). Take several measurements at different points at different angles to make sure there is no ovality or taper. If the ovality or taper of the necks is outside the prescribed specifications, the shaft is subject to grinding in a specialized car workshop.
13. Examine surfaces of necks of a shaft under epiploons. If the necks are severely worn, the new seal may leak. The necks can be sanded - seek advice from the specialists of the dealer car service.
14. Install the shaft on the prisms and use a dial indicator to measure its runout on the neck of the central support, "rolled" shaft. When carrying out this operation, do not damage the necks resting on the prism. The maximum allowable runout is not prescribed by the manufacturers, however, a runout of 0.03 mm is generally considered acceptable. If the runout is out of range, the crankshaft may need to be replaced - consult your dealer or an engine rebuilder for advice.
15. In paragraph 15 the welding of the crankshaft journals is described in detail.
Visitor comments