Cleaning
1. Remove all outdoor components and electrical sensors from the unit. For a complete cleaning, ideally, it is necessary to pull out the technological plugs from the cylinder block. To remove them, drill a small hole, then screw in a self-tapping screw and remove the plug with pliers or an impact puller (pic. 10.1, a-c).
2. Scrape off any traces of old gaskets, being careful not to damage the mating surfaces.
3. Remove the oil channel plugs. The plugs are usually very tight - they can be drilled out, new threads cut, and new plugs screwed in during assembly.
4. If the block is very dirty, it can be washed with steam under pressure. After cleaning the outer surfaces, clean all channels. Rinse them with hot water until clean runs out. Dry thoroughly and apply a coat of oil to treated surfaces to prevent corrosion. Lubricate the cylinders as well. If you have access to an air compressor, use it to speed up drying and blow out all channels.
Attention! Be careful and always wear protective goggles when working with compressed air.
5. If the parts are not very dirty, they can be washed with hot (how much can you endure) soapy water with hard shake. Regardless of the method used, clean and dry all channels and openings thoroughly. Protect them from corrosion as described above.
6. All threaded holes must be clean so that bolts can be screwed into them to the prescribed torque without fear of cracking the block. To remove rust, fixative residues and dirt from threaded holes and restore the thread profile, drive the holes with an appropriate tap (pic. 10.6). If possible, blow out the threaded holes with compressed air. It is useful to use a moisture-displacing aerosol with a straw, which is usually applied to the can (type WD-40).
Note: Pay special attention to ensure that no liquids or oil remain in the blind threaded holes - cracks may appear when bolts are screwed into them due to hydraulic pressure.
7. Apply a suitable sealant to the oil passage plugs, screw them into the holes in the block and tighten securely.
8. If you do not plan to assemble the engine immediately, cover it with plastic wrap and store it so that it does not rust.
Examination
9. Visually inspect the block for cracks and corrosion. Check threaded holes for damage. If there were internal coolant leaks, an inspection of the cylinder block on special equipment is required to detect hidden cracks. If such defects are found, repair if possible, if not, replace the unit.
10. Check all cylinder/liner surfaces for wear and tear. There is usually an unworn collar on the top of the cylinder/sleeve that indicates the piston stroke limit. If the wear is not very roller, it may be possible to bore it to the repair size. Seek advice from a suitably equipped workshop.
11. Measure the diameter of each cylinder at the top (in 10 mm under "fire belt!, in the middle and at the bottom (10 mm from bottom edge), parallel to the axis of the crankshaft.
Note: To take measurements, place the unit on a hard, level surface (Workbench). If the motor is mounted on a wobbly mounting stand, measurements may not be accurate.
12. Now take the same measurements. but in a plane, perpendicular to the axis of the crankshaft (pic. 10.12). If the difference between the results obtained exceeds the allowable Specifications, then the cylinder has elliptical or conical wear and drastic actions must be taken - all four cylinders must be bored to the repair size and the pistons must be replaced with new ones, also of the repair size.
13. Use the results of measurements of the diameters of the pistons, carried out earlier (see paragraph 7), to calculate the piston/cylinder clearance. Manufacturers do not define tolerances, so consult your dealer or engine rebuilder for advice.
14. Place the block on a flat hard surface with the crankcase down. Using a steel ruler and a set of flat feeler gauges, measure the curvature of the mating surface of the block with the head. Tolerances are not specified by manufacturers, however, a deflection of 0.05 mm is generally considered acceptable. If curvature greater than this value is possible, grinding will be required. Consult your dealer for advice
15. Before assembling the engine, the surface of the cylinders must be honed for better running-in of the rings and obtaining maximum sealing. A suitable type of hone has spring-loaded abrasive bars and can be inserted into an electric drill. Experienced car enthusiasts get satisfactory results using a plastic bottle pasted over with sandpaper for this.
Note: If such a tool is available to you, or you doubt your ability to cope with this task, it can be performed by a specialist for a moderate fee.
16. To perform this operation, you will need one of the above tools, a drill (electric or pneumatic), clean rags, kerosene or honing oil and goggles.
17. Install the hone in the drill chuck. The honing tool must be reciprocated to cross-groove the surface of the cylinder by pouring generous amounts of honing oil. Ideally, the grooves should intersect at an angle of 50...60° (pic. 10.17). When installing new pistons, their manufacturers may recommend honing at a different angle - follow their instructions.
Attention! Be careful and always wear protective goggles when working with compressed air.
18. When honing, spray the cylinders generously with oil. Do not overdo it when removing metal from machine cylinders. Do not remove the hone from the cylinder until its rotation has stopped. Take out the hone by turning it by hand. At the end of the procedure, wipe off all traces of honing oil with a clean rag.
19. Wipe the cylinder with a rag and move on to the next cylinder. When finished honing, wash off any abrasive residue with hot soapy water. The cylinder is clean if, after wiping, a clean cloth moistened with engine oil remains clean.
20. Coat the block with a thin layer of engine oil to keep it from rusting in storage.
21. Install all components removed in accordance with paragraph 1.
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