Withdrawal
1. Apply the handbrake and raise the front of the vehicle, install safety stands.
2. Remove the bottom protective casing of the power unit.
3. Place a basin under the pan, unscrew the drain plug and drain the engine oil. Clean the plug and, if necessary, replace the O-ring. When the oil is drained, screw the plug back and tighten it (pic. 15.3). Remove the dipstick.
ADP engines
4. On models with air conditioning, put a mark on the compressor drive belt about the direction of its rotation, dismantle the tensioner pulley and remove the drive belt.
5. Turn away bolts of fastening of a forward support to the engine (models with air conditioning) or to the subframe (models without air conditioning).
6. On non-air conditioned models, remove the longitudinal strut, then remove the reaction mount bracket from the engine.
7. Release the starter wire from the engine mount by cutting off the plastic tie.
8. Turn away the bottom nuts of all support of the engine.
9. Turn away bolts of fastening of a broad tank in the left part of an engine compartment, disconnect conducting from the lower gauge of emergency temperature of a cooling liquid, move a tank aside. Do not disconnect hoses.
10. Remove the engine top cover, remove the crankcase ventilation hose and air intake duct at the rear of the engine.
11. Release the oxygen sensor wiring from the mounting on the motor shield.
12. Attach a hoist to the engine and raise it as high as possible without damaging any hoses and wiring. Make sure that the viscous coupling with the fan impeller does not rest against the radiator; if necessary, remove the fan as described in Chapter 3, paragraph 5. Leave the fan inside the radiator diffuser.
13. Remove the intake manifold support bracket from the engine and gearbox.
14. Turn away bolts of fastening and remove a check point bracket/engine.
15. Turn away bolts of fastening of the pallet.
16. Remove the pan with gasket. If pallet "has grown", lightly tap it with a mallet, but do not pry it with any levers.
ADR, AFY, DEV and AJL engines
17. On models with air conditioning, put a mark on the compressor drive belt about the direction of its rotation. Remove the tensioner pulley and remove the belt.
18. Remove the front support from the engine (models with air conditioning) or from a stretcher (models without air conditioning).
19. Not all models with air conditioning, dismantle the longitudinal rack, dismantle the jet support bracket from the engine.
20. Release the starter wire from the engine mount by cutting off the plastic ties.
21. On AEB and AJL engines, loosen the clamp and disconnect the turbocharger hose from the air tube on the lock bracket.
22. Turn away the bottom nuts of all support of the engine.
23. Remove the engine top covers.
24. Attach the hoist to the engine and raise it as much as possible without damaging the hoses and wiring. Make sure that the viscous coupling with the fan impeller does not rest against the radiator; if necessary, remove the fan as described in paragraph 5 of chapter 3. Leave the fan inside the radiator diffuser.
25. Support the left and right subframes with a rolling jack, laying a piece of board between the jack and the subframes. Mark the position of the subframes in order to maintain the wheel alignment after installation, unscrew the bolts of the subframes. The two front bolts are turned off first, after which the rear ones are turned away. Lower the subframes together with the anti-roll bar to the floor.
26. On models with manual transmissions, loosen the pivot nut approximately four turns to keep it flush with the end of the bolt.
27. On models with automatic transmission, loosen the rear bolt on the left engine mount a few turns, then remove the front bolt.
28. On models with any gearbox, loosen the rear bolt on the right engine mount a few turns, then remove the front bolt.
29. On DEV and AJL engines, remove the flange bolts and disconnect the turbocharger oil return pipe from the sump. Remove the gasket.
30. Turn away bolts of fastening of the pallet. On manual transmission models, the two rear bolts can be accessed through cutouts in the flywheel - turn the flywheel to set the cutouts in position (pic. 15.30, a, b).
31. Remove the bottom with a gasket. If pallet "dried up", tap it with a mallet (pic. 15.31, a, b).
AHL engines
32. Access to the front of the engine is possible if you remove the front panel with the hood lock bracket and move it away from the body as far forward as possible without disconnecting the hoses and wiring. To do this, remove the front bumper - see chapter 11. Loosen the clips on the soundproofing panel. remove the air duct between the hood lock bracket and the air filter. To the left of the radiator, release the wiring from the fasteners. Unscrew the bolts securing the hood lock bracket assembly to the lower side members, unscrew the upper side bolts located behind the headlights. With an assistant, move the assembly as far forward from the vehicle as possible. Audi mechanics use special brackets for fixing. They can be made by threading bars and screwing them into the spar.
33. On models with air conditioning, mark the direction of rotation of the compressor drive belt, remove the tensioner pulley and remove the drive belt.
34. Remove the accessory drive belt as described in paragraph 6.
35. Remove the viscous fan coupling as described in paragraph 5 of chapter 3. The fan is removed by inserting the hexagon from the rear, holding the clutch from turning with a bolt temporarily inserted at the rear, resting on the engine block.
36. Turn away an arm of the lever of a support in front of the engine.
37. Release the starter wiring from the engine mount by cutting off the plastic ties.
38. Remove the support bracket between the intake manifold and sump.
39. Turn away the top nut from the left support of the engine.
40. Remembering the position of the engine mounts on both sides, unscrew the lower nuts of the mounts.
41. Connect the hoist to the engine, lift it up to the stop of the air duct - motor shield.
42. Completely remove the left engine mount.
43. Support the left and right subframe with a rolling jack, laying a piece of board between them. Mark the position of the subframes to maintain the wheel alignment after assembly. Turn away bolts of fastening of subframes. Remove the two front bolts, then the rear bolts. Lower the subframes together with the anti-roll bar to the floor.
44. Unscrew the nut of the left support (about four turns), so that it remains flush with the end of the bolt.
45. Turn away bolts of fastening of the pallet, remove the pallet. If pallet "dried up", tap it with a mallet. The gasket is not installed; a sealant is used to seal the joint.
Installation
46. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the pallet and unit. On AHL engines, it is recommended to use a rotating wire brush to remove old sealant.
AHL engines
Warning: Do not try to apply a thicker layer of sealant in the hope of improving the seal - excess sealant can get into the sump and clog the oil pickup screen, causing engine oil starvation.
47. Apply a 2-3 mm wide bead of suitable silicone sealant to the mating surface of the pan. Spread the sealant evenly around the bolt hole, paying particular attention to applying the sealant to the inside edge of the mating surface at the back of the sump. After applying the sealant, the pallet should be attached to the block immediately, first by screwing on the fastening bolts, then wrapping them "by hand". If the engine is removed from the vehicle, make sure that the rear edge of the sump is flush with the rear wall of the cylinder block. Tighten the pan bolts gradually and evenly to the specified torque. To track the curing time of the sealant, refer to the manufacturer's instructions. This usually takes about 30 minutes from the moment the engine is filled with engine oil. If the engine must be left without oil in the sump for a long time, remove the battery from the car and put up a warning sign so that no one would think to start the engine.
All engines except AHL
48. Apply a small amount of sealant to the mating surface of the block at the front and rear gland housings (pic. 15.48).
49. Lay a new gasket on the pallet, attach the pallet to the block and tighten the bolts. Do not use sealants. Tighten the bolts to the prescribed torque in diagonal sequence.
50. Establish an arm block/gearbox and tighten bolts of its fastening.
Note: If the sump is installed with the engine still on the vehicle and with the transmission removed, make sure the back of the block/gearbox bracket is flush with the adapter plate. If the adapter plate is removed, leave 0.8 mm (plate thickness) and install the bracket so that it protrudes 08 mm beyond the rear wall of the cylinder block (pic. 15.50).
All engines
51. The rest of the assembly procedure is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten screw connections to the prescribed torques. Fill the engine with the correct type and quantity of oil as shown in chapter 1A.
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