Attention! Replace the entire set of brake pads on an axle - never change pads on more than one wheel, the result may be uneven braking of the wheels. Be aware that asbestos-containing brake pad wear dust is carcinogenic. Never use compressed air to clean brakes, do not inhale dust. Wear a protective mask when working on the brakes. DO NOT use non-petrol solvents to clean brake parts - use brake cleaner or methyl alcohol.
1. Apply the handbrake. Raise the front of the vehicle and install safety stands. Then remove the front wheels. When removing the wheels, wrap one bolt into the hubs so that the brake discs do not mix relative to the hub.
Calipers ATE/Teves
2. Carefully remove the pad retaining spring (pic. 4.2).
3. Remove the plugs from the guide bushings to gain access to the guide pin bolts (pic. 4.3).
4. Remove the upper and lower mounting bolts of the guide struts, remove the bracket from the pads and tie a piece of wire to the suspension strut so as not to load the brake hose (pic. 4.4, a-c).
5. Disengage the inner pad from the caliper piston and remove the outer pad (pic. 4.5, a, b).
Lucas calipers
6. Remove the top and bottom guide pin bolts while holding them with an open end wrench (pic. 4.6). New bolts are required for installation.
7. Remove the caliper from the mounting bracket. Tie the caliper to the strut with wire so as not to stress the brake hose (pic. 4.7, a, b).
8. Remove pads. Make sure that the heat sink plate remains fixed in the end of the piston (pic. 4.8, a-c).
All models
9. First measure the thickness of the friction material (pic. 4.9). If any pad is damaged or has unacceptable wear (see specification), replace the entire set of pads so as not to disturb the balance of the brakes. The pads must also be replaced if at least one of them is oiled - there is no satisfactory way to remove oil from the friction material without changing its structure. If at least one pad has been oiled, find the cause and correct it before installing a new set of pads.
10. If the pads look good, carefully clean them of dirt with a wire soft brush, paying special attention to the back and sides. Clean the grooves in the friction material, remove foreign inclusions. Clean the seats in the caliper and bracket.
Calipers ATE/Teves
11. The guide pins should slide easily over the caliper bushings. Make sure the rubber boots on the rails are not damaged. Brush the dust off the caliper and piston, but do not inhale it as it is hazardous to health. The anthers around the pistons must be flails, the pistons must not have corrosion, leaks or other damage. If any of these components require attention - see paragraph 8.
12. If you install new pads, the piston must be sunk into the caliper flush with its surface. To do this, you can use a clamp or use wooden blocks as levers. Pinch the brake hose, and at the moment of compression of the cylinder, open the bleeder fitting by attaching a hose dipped in a can to it so that the old fluid does not return to the system (pic. 4.12).
Note: The ABS system is sensitive to the cleanliness of the brake fluid - the slightest dirt can block its operation. Use the above method for bleeding the brakes - and the fluid will be updated more often.
13. Attach the inner pad to the piston and install the outer pad with friction material against the disc. The outer pad has a stamped arrow on the outer edge that points in the normal direction of rotation of the brake disc. When installing new pads, remove the shipping foil (if there) and remove any traces of adhesive.
14. Install the bracket in place and insert the rail mounting bolts, tightening them to the prescribed torque (pic. 4.14).
15. Install the plugs on the guide bushings and attach the wear sensor wiring to the bottom cap.
16. Install the shoe retainer spring. Press the inner edge of the spring so that its ends are securely fixed on the surface of the pads.
Lucas calipers
17. The guide pins should slide easily over the caliper bushings.
18. Check that the rubber boots on the rails are not damaged. Brush the dust from the caliper and piston, but do not inhale it - it is hazardous to health. The anthers around the pistons must be intact, the pistons must be free of corrosion, leaks and other damage. If any of these components require attention. - see paragraph 8.
19. If you install new pads, the piston must be sunk into the caliper flush with its surface. Read item 12.
20. Attach the inner pad to the piston and install the outer pad with friction material against the disc. When installing new pads, remove the shipping foil (if there) and remove any traces of adhesive.
21. Install the bracket in place so that the shoe springs (in the form of butterflies) rested on the inner surface of the bracket, not pinching and not protruding into the control hole of the bracket.
Note: New guide pin bolts are required for installation.
22. Insert the rail mounting bolts, tightening them to the prescribed torque (pic. 4.22, a, b).
All models
23. Press the brake pedal several times so that the pads are pressed against the brake disc - the working position is occupied, and normal "rigidity" pedals (when the amplifier is not working).
24. Perform the above procedure on the caliper on the other side.
25. Mount the wheels, lower the vehicle, tighten the wheel bolts to the prescribed torque - see chapters 1A or 1B.
26. Check the brake fluid level as described in weekly checks.
Warning: To achieve full brake performance, new pads must "get used to". Therefore, avoid sudden braking for the first few hundred kilometers after changing the pads.
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