Table of contents: Malfunctions ↓ Table of measuring values for window… ↓ Temporary roadside assistance ↓ Replacing the window lift motor ↓
The operating mode of the window lifters is determined not only by the switches, but also by the window lifter control unit on the support with additional relays on the left under the dashboard.
Functioning: when the ignition is on, the glass in the driver's door or the passenger's door next to the driver slides up or down until it stops by briefly pressing or releasing the switch. The glass movement is stopped by briefly pressing the button in the opposite direction.
For safety reasons, this convenient way of switching on the rear doors only exists for lowering the glass.
When the ignition is off, when you press the button, all windows move down to the stop only. The glass moves up only if the window lifter button is pressed.
Child protection: the electric windows in the rear doors are locked by a central switch in the driver's door armrest.
Anti-theft device: if the driver's door is opened and closed again with the engine off, all windows are disabled.
Comfortable closure: in all cars with electric windows, they can be closed simultaneously when the driver's door and the passenger door next to the driver are closed. To do this, hold the key in the "closed" position for a little longer. If there is an electric sliding roof, it also closes at the same time.
Jam protection: If the glass encounters an obstacle while moving upward, it immediately begins to move in the opposite direction and drops a few centimeters.
Malfunctions
1. If neither glass moves, check the circuit breakers in slots 22 and 23 in the "8-way relay support" on the left under the instrument panel for continuity.
2. Checking the switches: If only one window lifter does not work, try to operate it from the second switch.
3. This way you can determine whether the source of the fault is in the first switch.
4. This test cannot be performed with the driver's door glass. Remove the door trim.
5. For the sake of experiment, swap the switch connectors so that the driver's door glass is activated by a switch that is definitely working.
6. Checking the supply wire: If the switch is OK, then disconnect the wire connector in the window lifter motor and check the connector with a voltmeter to see if the correct signals are actually being sent to the window lifter.
7. If the voltage readings are correct, then the source of the defect remains the window lift motor.
8. But if there is no voltage supplied to the engine, then check the wire and the control unit.
9. Poor glass movement may be due to a jammed window guide.
Table of measuring values for window lifters
The table shows the nominal values using the driver's door window lift as an example (cars with four windows).
On the rear windows and in cars with two power windows, wires of other colors are partially laid (see footnotes).
Terminal | Wire color | Measurement relative to | Condition | Nominal value | It is measured |
| 1 | Red/gray | "masses" | "Ignition on" or door not closed since last time "Ignition on" | Approx. 12 V | Voltage from the control unit |
| 2 | White/yellow | masses | no | Approx. 12 V | Voltage of the signal "Central closing" |
| 2 | White/yellow | masses | Holding the key in the door lock in the "Closed" position | Approx. 12 V | Voltage of the signal "Central closing" |
| 3 | Yellow/blue 1) | masses | "Ignition on" or door not closed since last time "Ignition on" | Approx. 12 V | Switch signal "Window open" |
| 4 | Black/Yellow 2) | masses | "Ignition on" or door not closed since last time "Ignition on" | Approx. 12 V | Switching signal "Window closed" |
| 5 | Black | masses | "Ignition on." | Approx. 12 V | Voltage from ignition switch |
| 6 | Brown | "+" | no | Approx. 12 V | Connection to ground |
| 7 | Red/green | masses | no | Approx. 12 V | Constantly± |
1) or green/yellow, or white/black
2) or black/red, or white/black, or white/purple
Temporary roadside assistance
There is no mechanical override for power windows. But if your windows don't work, you don't have to drive with the window open:
1. If the switch is faulty, try to close the window using the second switch.
2. If it didn't work (for example, in the driver's door), then remove the switch of the other window or connect the connecting wire to the second, working switch (about dismantling switches in this chapter above).
3. With this working switch you will be able to close the window.
4. If the window lift motor is faulty, it can be removed by removing the door trim. To do this, loosen the clamping connection between the window and the window lift (screws on the back - chapter Body parts).
5. Now slide the glass up and fix it in this position using adhesive tape or a wooden wedge.
Replacing the window lift motor
The window lift motors are removed in the same way as the mechanical lifts (chapter Body parts). When installing a window lift motor, programming the stops is important:
1. Turn on the ignition.
2. Using the switch, lift the glass up to the stop.
3. Now hold the switch in the "up" position several times for a second.
4. Check: press the switch to the "down" position. Now the glass should go down by itself until it stops.
5. Electric motor repair is not provided.
Electric window motor (1) with disconnected connector (2) and three mounting screws (3-5).
Here the connector (2) of the window lift motor (1) has been removed in order to check using a voltmeter and a test wire (3) whether the correct signals are being sent to the window lift.
(This article was previously published on the resource: Audimanual.ru)