About terms
1. Four factors of wheel alignment are adjustable. All angles are given in degrees. Pivot axis - an imaginary line drawn through the axle of the suspension strut, extended to contact with the road.
2. Camber angle - the angle at which the wheel plane is deviated from the vertical, when viewed from the front of the car. Positive camber - angle (in degrees), on which the plane of the wheel is deflected outward from the top of the vertical, negative camber is the angle (in degrees), by which the plane of the wheel is deflected inward from the top of the vertical. The camber angle of each front wheel is not adjustable however both front wheels can be balanced by moving the suspension subframe. The rear camber angle is also not adjustable and is for reference only.
3. The angle of the longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation - the angle between the axis of rotation and the vertical. when viewed from the side of the wheel. Positive tilt angle - the angle when the pivot axis is tilted back from the top of the vertical. The operating angle is not adjustable. As with the collapse, the data is for reference only.
4. Convergence - the difference between the front and rear distances between the dinners of the rims at the height of the hub. If the forward distance is less, the convergence is positive; if more - negative. Toe-in in angular degrees is determined by taking the center line of the vehicle as zero.
5. Toe-in is adjusted by unscrewing or tightening the steering tips, changing the total length of the steering rods. The toe angles of the rear wheels can only be balanced by moving the rear beam.
Check and adjustment
6. Due to the need for precise measuring tools, camber and toe adjustments are best left to a suitably equipped workshop. The angle of the longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation is set during the manufacture of the car, its deviation from the norm can occur only after an accident or serious wear of the suspension mounts.
Adjustment of a convergence of forward wheels
7. There are two verification methods. The first method is to use a ruler to measure the distance between the wheel rims. Other methods are more accurate, but require expensive equipment, the purchase of which for one-time purposes does not seem appropriate. Such equipment is usually available in specialized workshops.
8. To maintain the accuracy of measurements, it is necessary to unload the car, fill in a full tank of fuel, put the spare wheel and on-board tool kit in the trunk. Inflate tires as described in weekly checks. Bleed the car several times to bring the suspension to its working position, set the wheels to the straight-ahead position.
9 The necessary adjustment is made as follows. Apply the handbrake, then raise the front of the vehicle and install the safety stands.
10. Clean the threaded parts of the tips first. Wet corroded tips with penetrating liquid before unscrewing (type "liquid key").
11. While holding the adjuster still, loosen the tip and linkage jam nuts. Adjust the length of the rod by turning the knob; reducing the length of the rod increases the convergence - and vice versa.
12. When finished with the adjustment, hold the adjuster and tighten both locknuts to the specified torque.
13. If, after adjusting the spokes of the steering wheel, they are not level when the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position, remove the steering wheel and rearrange it. as described in paragraph 14.
14. Lower the car and check the wheel alignment, if necessary, make adjustments.
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