Front oil seal
1. Remove the timing belt and crankshaft sprocket as described in paragraph 5.
2. The seal can be replaced without removing the housing. Drill two small opposite holes in the oil seal to be replaced. Wrap a self-tapping screw in them and, pulling them with pliers, remove the gland (pic. 10.2). Do not drill through the gland housing or the shaft seal! Using an alternative method, remove the housing mounting bolts (including the corresponding pallet fixing bolts), remove the gasket and remove the oil seal by prying it with a screwdriver (pic. 10.2). If necessary, on ADP, ADR, AEB, AJL engines, remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket to improve access. If the sump gasket is damaged when the housing is removed, the sump will need to be removed and a new gasket installed. However, the sump is installed after the gland housing is installed.
3. Lubricate the oil seal with clean engine oil and install it flush into the body with the working edges inside the engine using a mandrel or a wooden block of a hammer (pic. 10.3).
4. Install the housing with a new gasket, tighten the bolts evenly in a diagonal sequence. To prevent damage to the oil seal, wrap the sharp edges of the shaft with masking tape (pic. 10.4, a-g).
5. Install the timing belt and crankshaft sprocket as described in paragraph 5.
Rear crankshaft oil seal
Application: Before starting work, make sure that you have an oil seal without a housing. Later models are equipped with an oil seal in the housing and are not separately supplied as spare parts.
6. Remove flywheel/faceplate. as described in paragraph 13.
7. If there is a gland without a housing, it can be replaced without removing the housing. Drill two opposite holes in the hard edge of the stuffing box, wrap them in a self-tapping screw and, pulling them with pliers, remove the stuffing box (pic. 10.7). Using a different method, dismantle the stuffing box housing (to do this, you will have to unscrew the corresponding bolts securing the pallet), remove the gasket and press out the oil seal on a workbench. If the pan gasket is damaged when removing the housing, you will have to remove the pan and replace it. However, the sump is installed after the stuffing box housing is installed. With the old seal removed, dip the new one in clean engine oil and press it into the housing flush with the outside surface using a drift or block of wood. The gland is pressed in with the closed side facing out.
8. If the old oil seal is built into the housing (fixed), dismantle the case (unscrew, including the corresponding bolts securing the pallet) and remove the gasket. If the pan gasket is damaged when removing the housing, you will have to remove the pan and change the gasket. The sump is installed after the gland housing is installed.
9. New oil seals are supplied complete with a plastic cover that fits over the crankshaft so as not to damage the oil seal during installation. First put on the cover, then the gland (pic. 10.9, a, b).
10. Install the housing with the gland and tighten the housing mounting bolts in a diagonal sequence to the prescribed torque, remove the boot (pic. 10.10).
11. Install handwheel/faceplate as described in paragraph 13.
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