Repair kit for repairing stone impact marks
Many manufacturers offer kits to repair damage caused by rock impact (pinhead-sized damage). These kits are no more difficult to use than a bottle of nail polish. An alternative remedy is a special varnish for repairing small damage to the varnish coating, while filling the hole with a brush. In the case of ordinary varnishes, wax pencils of the corresponding color also help. True, the wax film can withstand only a few washes, after which it must be renewed. The designation of the varnish and the color code of the car can be found in the documentation for the car.
Repair paint damage promptly
Flaws in the lacquer coating cannot be ignored. Rust can pass through the adjacent varnish layer. Under adverse conditions (heat and moisture) this can happen within a few days. Therefore, remember: damage to the varnish should be repaired as soon as possible. If the rust has been spreading unhindered for several months or years, then it usually manifests itself in the form of ugly recesses or holes in the sheets that make up the body. Such damage can be dealt with with costly restoration work, but this requires experience in handling the relevant materials. This work, as well as the elimination of damage to the sheets, is not described in this book.
This basic equipment will allow you to cope with scratches:
- Duct tape (use materials for professional work).
- Newspapers or film for pasting.
- Sanding block made of wood or cork for sanding surfaces.
- Sanding paper in various grits for wet and dry sanding.
- Putty and putty mass, hardener. Special spatula for leveling small irregularities.
- Adhesion primer as a basis for a paint and varnish covering.
- Top coat in matching color.
- Varnish care agent, preservative, polish.
Repair damage from stone impact
1. Remove scratches with protruding edges with a thin needle.
2. If rust has formed, carefully scrape it off with a sharp knife. Apply one drop of rust modifier to the area, wait approximately one hour.
3. Clean the damaged area with washing gasoline or thinner, dry it thoroughly.
4. Spray some adhesive primer into the cap of the aerosol can and apply it in a thin layer with a brush or fingertip. Wait until the primer dries.
5. With the tip of your finger or a small plastic knife, press a small amount of putty into the recess, the putty should be flush with the adjacent varnish surface. Let the putty dry. Prepare a rag and thinner to immediately wipe off putty stains from the varnish.
6. If you have added too much putty: stretch a narrow strip of fine-grained sanding paper around the tip of the pencil and, turning the pencil, remove the excess putty by grinding.
7. Spray a little varnish into the lid and wait one minute. Apply a very thin coat of polish with your fingertip or thin brush.
8. When the varnish is completely dry (in summer, the varnish dries within about two days, in winter - within five days), treat the repaired place with polish, if necessary, treat the transition points with a lacquer care agent.
Removing small scratches
1. Clean the damaged area with washing gasoline or thinner.
2. If there is lacquer from someone else's car in the area of the scratch, remove it from the top lacquer in a few steps with a polishing pad, sanding polish or lacquer cleaner. The surface to be polished should be as small as possible.
3. If the edges of the scratch remain uneven, sand the area thoroughly with a small strip of fine wet sanding paper (minimum grit 600). Sanding paper must be constantly moistened. Be careful not to sand through the top coat.
4. Polish the damaged area with soft polish. In this case, paint particles from adjacent areas are distributed over the scratch.
5. At the end of the work, treat the polished place with a preservative.
6. If you attach great importance to gloss uniformity, polish the entire car.
Repairing large scratches
1. In the case of deep scratches on the bumper or fender, before repairing the varnish, remove the corresponding body part, so the repair will be faster and easier.
2. Sand down the damaged surface, sanding paper should be 80 or 100 grit. If rust is present, sand to bare metal, apply a rust modifier and let it work for one hour.
3. Clean and degrease the repair site with washing gasoline or thinner, then let it dry.
4. Mix putty and hardener. The putty mass makes the damaged area flush with the adjacent varnish coating. Be careful, putty can only be used for a few minutes, as the hardener sets quickly. For small irregularities, spray putty can also be used.
5. Evenly and quickly apply the putty mass in several thin layers. The layer cures in about an hour.
6. Buff uneven surfaces carefully with dry sanding paper (grain size 240). Use wet sanding paper for final sanding (grit 400), surface should be sanded with slight pressure.
7. If there are still risks after that, level with a sprayed putty, after the putty dries, sand the surface completely.
8. Carefully wipe off sanding dust before varnishing.
Varnish like a pro
9. Tape the damaged area with waterproof and elastic adhesive tape for varnishing, film or old newspapers. Cheap duct tape quickly softens and leaks paint. When varnishing, poisonous fumes are produced, so make sure that the workplace is well ventilated.
10. Spray an adhesive primer as a finely porous base for the topcoat (filler). Work carefully, as with the gradual application of varnish, bumps and sagging do not disappear, but increase. Let the primer dry, then flat sand with wet sanding paper (grit 600). Wipe off sanding residue.
11. From an aerosol can, apply several coats of top coat evenly and quickly. The distance from the spray head to the surface to be varnished should be approximately 20 - 30 cm. Before varnishing, heat the can in hot water for a short time. Thanks to this technique, the jet is thinner and leaves the can under high pressure, this allows you to get a more even surface.
12. Peel off and peel off the edges of the adhesive tape at the area to be repaired, then re-spray to achieve a smooth transition to the original lacquer finish.
13. When the varnish is completely dry (in summer, the varnish dries within about two days, in winter - within five days), treat the repaired place with polish, and the transitions with a lacquer care product. If you attach great importance to the uniformity of the gloss, polish the entire car.
If using an aerosol can for varnishing, cut a hole in a large piece of cardboard to match the size of the damaged area. In this case, the jet covers only the surface that needs to be processed.
If even a small amount of top coat remains at the damaged area, scratches can be repaired with sanding polish or paint care product. Use only high-quality material, such material can be purchased at an automotive supply store.
Wrap sanding paper around the sanding block. Sand the damaged area, the movements should be made evenly and in one direction. Dip the block constantly in water to wash off sanding dust from it.
If you are working with putty for the first time, then before starting work, practice in this matter. Make a test pass on an old metal sheet, this will give you the necessary skills and confidence in handling the material.
The spray can should be held calmly over the varnished surface. Guide the jet of sprayed varnish past the object being varnished, while not stopping or making oval movements backwards - this will avoid the formation of sagging.
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