Steering and front suspension check
1. Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack and install safety stands (see Jacking up the car and installing a harness).
2. Visually check for damage to the anthers of the spherical steering tips and steering rods of the rack and pinion mechanism. The rupture of the anther causes the loss of lubrication of the assembly and the penetration of dirt into it, which leads to rapid wear.
3. On models with power steering, check the hydraulic tubes and hoses for flatness, kinks, or other damage. There should be no leaks. Check also under pressure (turning the steering wheel with the engine running until it stops, first in one direction, then in the other direction) no leaks of hydraulic fluid from under the covers of the steering mechanism, which indicates wear of the seals (cuffs) inside the steering gear.
4. Grab the front wheel with your hands in position "6 and 12 o'clock" and shake it (pic. 13.4). Only a barely noticeable backlash has the right to be, if the backlash is significant, it is necessary to find its source. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal and continue rocking the wheel. If the play has disappeared or significantly decreased, the probable malfunction lies in worn wheel bearings. If the play is significant even now, the bearings and suspension joints are likely to be worn.
5. Now grab the wheel with your hands in position "9 and 15 hours", shake the wheel as before. Now play can be qualified as play in the steering or in the wheel bearing. Wear on the outer steering tip when rocking is obvious. Wear on the inner tie rod joint can be felt. if you feel the hinge with your hand through the cover of the rack and pinion mechanism. In this case, of course, the wheel must be wiggled.
6. Check the condition of the bushings and suspension mounts by wedging and shaking them with a mounting spatula or a powerful slotted screwdriver. A small amount of movement has the right to be, since the bushings and supports are made of rubber, but a significant play indicates a separation of the rubber from the metal - you can see it. Check the condition of all visible bushings, they should not have cracks, delaminations and abrasions.
7. Lower the car. Have an assistant rock the wheel left and right about one-eighth of a turn in both directions. The backlash may be barely noticeable. If it's not. carefully inspect all supports and hinges described above. Also check the steering column hinges for wear, the condition of the steering mechanism itself.
Checking the condition of shock absorbers
8. Check for any shock absorber leaks. Current shock absorbers have permanent internal damage and must be replaced.
Note: Struts/shock absorbers are always replaced in pairs on the same axle.
9. The effectiveness of shock absorbers can be tested by rocking the car around corners. If the buildup is stopped, the car should return to its original position without continuing to oscillate. If it continues to move up and down, the condition of the shock absorber qualifies as at least suspicious. Check the upper and lower shock absorber rubber mounts for wear and damage.
Drive shafts
10. With the front of the vehicle raised and jack stands in place, turn the steering wheel all the way. Slowly rotate the front wheel, checking the condition of the outer CV joint boot (constant velocity joint), squeezing it. to break the accordion. Check for cracks, torn holes, or degradation of boot rubber that could allow dirt to enter the hinge. Check boot straps for integrity. Repeat this operation on the inner hinge covers. If the covers are found to be damaged, replace them as described in Chapter 8, paragraph 3.
11. At the same time check up a condition of hinges, keeping a power shaft from turning and shaking a wheel. Repeat this operation for the inner hinges. A noticeable play indicates wear on the splines or loosening of the hinge nut.
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