Table of contents: Viscosity and specifications ↓ Petrol engines ↓ Diesel engines ↓ Qualities of motor oils ↓ Motor oil additives ↓ Mixing oils ↓ Oil and oil filter change ↓ V6 petrol engines ↓ V8 petrol engines ↓ V6 TDI Diesel Engines ↓ Diesel engines 3.3l V8 TDI ↓ Engines with turbocharger ↓ Checking the engine oil level ↓
Viscosity and specifications
At the manufacturer's plant, the engine is filled with a special high-quality all-season oil, which is suitable for use at any time of the year, with the exception of particularly cold climate zones.
Fig. 2–1. Viscosity of motor oils
The engine can be topped up with oil of a different specification. The viscosity grade of the oil should be selected in accordance with the data in Fig. 2-1. If the air temperature is only briefly outside the temperature range shown in the figure, the oil should not be changed.
Petrol engines
A – all-season oils with improved antifriction properties, specification VW 500 00.
B – all-season oils, specification VW 501 01.
– all-season oils, API-SF or SG specification.
Diesel engines
A – all-season oils with improved antifriction properties, specification VW 500 00 (for turbocharged diesel engines only when mixed with oil specification VW 505 00).
B – all-season oils, specification VW 505 00 (for all diesel engines),
– all-season oils, API-CD specification (for turbocharged diesel engines only if absolutely necessary for topping up).
– all-season oils, specification VW 501 01 (for turbocharged diesel engines only when mixed with oil specification VW 505 00).
Qualities of motor oils
All-season oils of the VW 501 01 and VW 505 00 specifications are relatively inexpensive and have the following qualities:
- possibility of year-round use in temperate climate zones;
- excellent cleaning properties;
- good lubricating ability at any temperature and engine load;
- stability of the original properties over a long period of time.
All-season oils with improved anti-friction properties according to the VW 500 00 specification also have additional advantages:
- can be used at almost any outside temperature;
- low engine power losses due to friction;
- facilitate starting a cold engine even at very low temperatures.
Warnings: Due to their specific viscosity-temperature properties, monograde oils cannot usually be used all year round and should therefore only be used in the appropriate climate zones.
When using SAE 5W–30 all-season oils, prolonged engine operation at high speed and constant high engine load must be avoided. These restrictions do not apply to all-season oils with improved antifriction properties.
Motor oil additives
Do not add friction reducing additives to motor oil.
Mixing oils
This and similar questions are of interest to many car enthusiasts. Unfortunately, oils cannot be mixed, even if they are oils from leading manufacturers (Shell, Mobil, British Petroleum). Each company produces commercial oils, adding a whole range of additives to the oil base, the chemical composition of which is kept secret. Therefore, when mixing high-quality oils of the same purpose, manufactured in accordance with the requirements of existing motor oil classification systems, but using technologies from different companies, low-quality mixtures may result due to incompatibility of additives. Oils from different companies are interchangeable, and engine manufacturers often indicate the possibility of using such oils. But this does not mean that they can be mixed. The API and ACEA classification systems require mandatory identical testing methods (laboratory, bench - motor, etc.) for oils from different companies. If desired (or necessity) automakers may introduce additional testing (or more stringent conditions) oils.
The same applies to mixing mineral or synthetic oils (sometimes even from the same company). Synthetic oils, such as hydrocarbon oils, from the same company can be mixed. In this case, the oil manufacturer provides the appropriate recommendations and bears responsibility. However, there are frequent cases when mixing oils deteriorates their quality. As a result, the engine may knock, since the mixture of incompatible oils turns into "jelly".
In no case should you mix imported and domestic oils, especially with the addition of domestic additives. Neither the seller nor the consumer knows the composition of the additives that are added to the oils. Some oils of "domestic origin" are produced by "companies" that do not have even basic knowledge of petroleum products. Sometimes such "specialists" use waste oils (even without proper regeneration) for the production of "commercial". Use only oils recommended in the operating manual.
No "cleaners" ("Tokron" and others) are able to increase the octane number of gasoline. For this purpose, special additives are used - antiknock agents, which are added during the production of gasoline at oil refineries, or additives. The cause of detonation (a metallic knock is heard while the engine is running) and glow plug ignition (the engine continues to run when the ignition is off) there may be carbon deposits in the combustion chamber.
The increase in compression in the system "with the introduction of certain additives" occurs not due to viscosity additives, since they do not have them in their composition, but for other reasons.
It is not advisable to reduce oil consumption in an old engine and increase compression in the cylinders by using high-viscosity oils, since this will indeed increase compression in the cylinders, but not for long. In the future, engine repairs will cost more.
The reason for "acoustic" noise in an old engine is its wear, so it will be cheaper to repair it with subsequent use of high-quality oil. It is possible to reduce gaps with additives, but the expediency of this should be understood in order not to harm the engine.
It is necessary to make it a rule: use high-quality oil of one brand that is appropriate for the engine and do not mix it with synthetic oil (or semi-synthetic) oil. The engine will thank you for this with trouble-free operation. Do not buy oil "from hands", as the packaging is easy to counterfeit.
Oil and oil filter change
Periodic replacement of oil and oil filter is the most important preventive maintenance procedure. During operation, engine oil ages – it becomes liquid and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
The oil should be changed immediately after driving on a warm engine so that the oil and dirt can drain better.
Raise the vehicle on a lift or place it horizontally on an inspection pit.
Remove the lower engine splash shield.
V6 petrol engines
Fig. 2–2. Location of oil filter on V6 gasoline engines
Unscrew the oil filter (Fig. 2–2). If the filter is difficult to unscrew, use the special Hazet 2171–1 key.
Place a container to collect the oil under the oil drain hole and unscrew the plug. If necessary, press on the plug while unscrewing to prevent the oil from draining prematurely, and drain the engine oil.
Once the oil has drained completely, wipe away any oil around the drain hole and screw in the oil drain plug with a new sealing ring.
Wipe the oil filter installation area and screw in the new oil filter.
Fill the engine with oil of the appropriate grade.
V8 petrol engines
The oil filter is located on the right rear of the engine.
On V8-5V engines there is no oil drain plug on the oil filter cover.
Place a container to catch the oil under the drain hole and unscrew the plug. If necessary, press on the plug while unscrewing to prevent the oil from draining prematurely, and drain the engine oil.
Fig. 2–3. Location of the bolt (1) securing the oil filter (3) and the drain plug (2)
Unscrew plug 2 of the drain hole on the oil filter (Fig. 2–3).
Unscrew bolt 1 of the fastening and remove the cover and filter element of the oil filter.
Fig. 2–4. Elements of the oil filter of an eight-cylinder gasoline engine: 1 – bolt; 2 – seal; 3 – lid; 4 – sealing ring; 5 – filter element; 6 – sealing ring; 7 – drain plug
Wipe the housing and cover of the oil filter and install a new filter element 5 (Fig. 2–4) of the oil filter.
Lubricate sealing ring 4 with fresh engine oil, install cover 3 with sealing ring in place and secure with bolt 1 with new seal 2, tightening it to 25 Nm.
Screw plug 7 with a new sealing ring 6 into the filter cover and tighten it to a torque of 50 Nm.
Wipe off the oil around the drain hole and screw the drain plug into the oil pan, tightening it to a torque of 35 Nm.
Fill the engine with oil of the appropriate grade.
On V8–5V engines, tighten the oil filter cover bolt to 25 N·m and the oil pan plug to 50 N·m.
V6 TDI Diesel Engines
Fig. 2–5. V6 TDI diesel engine oil filter: 1 – cover; 2 – sealing ring; 3 – filter element
Using a SW 32 open-end wrench, unscrew the oil filter cover 1 (Fig. 2–5).
Remove the sealing ring 2 and filter element 3 of the oil filter.
Clean the oil filter housing and install a new filter element 3.
Install a new sealing ring 2 on cover 1 and screw the cover onto the housing, tightening it to a torque of 25 Nm.
Place an oil drain container under the drain hole and unscrew the plug, applying pressure as you unscrew it if necessary to prevent the oil from draining prematurely, and drain the engine oil.
When the oil has completely drained, wipe away any oil around the drain hole and screw in the plug with a new sealing ring, tightening it to a torque of 25 N·m.
Fill the engine with oil of the appropriate grade.
Diesel engines 3.3l V8 TDI
The oil filter is located on the right side of the engine, near the lower frame.
Place an oil drain container under the oil drain hole and unscrew the plug. If necessary, press on the plug while unscrewing to prevent the oil from draining prematurely, and drain the engine oil.
Fig. 2–6. Location of the drain plug (1) on the oil filter cover (2)
Unscrew plug 1 (Fig. 2–6) of the drain hole from cover 2 of the oil filter.
Fig. 2–7. Oil filter of the 3.3l V8 TDI diesel engine: 1 – plug; 2 – sealing ring; 3 – lid; 4 – sealing ring; 5 – filter element
Unscrew the oil filter cover 3 (Fig. 2–7).
Remove sealing ring 4 and filter element 5.
Clean the oil filter housing and install a new filter element 5.
Install a new sealing ring 4, lubricated with a thin layer of oil, onto cover 3 and screw the cover onto the housing, tightening it to a torque of 25 Nm.
Screw in plug 1 with a new sealing ring 2 and tighten it to a torque of 10 Nm.
Screw in the drain plug with a new sealing ring, tightening it to a torque of 50 Nm.
Fill the engine with oil of the appropriate grade.
Engines with turbocharger
After changing the oil and oil filter, the engine should be allowed to idle at first start until the oil pressure warning light goes out. If you increase the engine speed while the light is on, turbocharger may fail.
Checking the engine oil level
Fig. 2–8. Oil level and location of marks on the oil level indicator (dipstick): a – minimum; b – normal; c – maximum
Check the engine oil level. If the oil level is below normal, add oil in small portions until the oil level reaches the MAX mark (Fig. 2–8) on the oil level indicator (dipstick).
If the oil level is at the MIN mark, adding about another liter will raise the oil level to the maximum. Close the filler neck with the cap.
Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Check for oil leaks around the filter and the drain plug on the pan. Note that the oil pressure warning light may stay on for a few seconds (until the oil fills the entire lubrication system).
Stop the engine and wait a few minutes for the oil to drain into the pan. Check the oil level and top up if necessary. Check that the plug is tight.